There are many standard profiles available in all styles.
There are several types of mouldings available for cabinets, crown, under cabinet, counter edging, spindles, etc. These mouldings are coordinated with the cabinet wood specie.
The composition of the moulding can be of medium density fiberboard, finger joint pine primed or unprimed, solid pine primed or unprimed, oak, maple, alder, and birch.
This type of molding is very special. The composition allows the molding to be positioned with a radius, such as for arched doorways. With a template any arch can be manufactured.
This is the term that is utilized for the trim that is placed around the doorways.
This is the term that is utilized for the trim that is placed at the bottom of the wall on top of the floor.
This is the term that is utilized for the trim that is placed at the juncture between the ceiling and the wall. It can also be placed around the top of any item to enhance the beauty of the structure, cabinets, etc.
Any molding that would be utilized for a handrail or placed on the walls as the top of wainscot.
We can have manufactured for the customer any profile of moulding out of any wood specie that is available in the world. Time, energy, and money can create that special moulding for your design.
There are several types of moldings that may be required to complete the project. The expansion area around the walls requires a baseboard or some other means to protect the area between the wall and the flooring. We have color coordinated 3 1/4″ baseboard and 3/4″ quarter round. Also, we have many standard profiles of molding available to paint or stain for that professional look.
Molding – measuring and installation
The amount of molding that may be required for a project is directly related to the surface that you plan on placing the molding. Always add one foot to each measurement for miter cuts and errors. If the wall has a door in it, measure the left wall and add one foot, then measure the right portion and add one foot.
“measure twice – cut once”
All molding is manufactured in specified lengths. Therefore, you will be purchasing more than what is required, incase you did not measure twice!
Tools & hardware
Hammer, finishing nails, nail set, tape measure, back saw, miter box, masking tape, sandpaper, wood putty, & coping saw.
Coping saw would be used when butting one molding against another in a corner joining technique.
Miter box is utilized for cutting 45-degree and 90-degree cuts. Always know what side of the line you should be cutting on. It makes a difference.
Doors and windows that require 45-degree, picture frame corner.
Measure the length of the area of concern, then add the width of the molding to that length. You may desire to add an additional amount. It is always easier to trim the 90-degree, bottom for the door casing than the 45-degree miter at the top.
Large spans of molding areas may have to be spliced. Always splice at a 45-degree. Place both pieces is the miter box for cutting. This technique provides a consistent cut to both pieces for joining. When placing the pieces on the wall, place the open cut first, then place the top piece on the miter and slide it into position. Gluing the joint prior to nailing provides for a stronger joint.
Painting & Staining
It may be better to paint or stain the molding prior to installing. When this technique is accomplished, the nail holes will have to be covered up. Prior to nailing, cover the area for the nail with masking tape, drive the finishing nail through the masking tape into the molding and set the nail. Now putty the nail hole and when dry paint or stain the small putty area. Remove the masking tape and bingo it is done with ease.