Tin ceiling material, real metal – not plastic, comes in 3”, 6”, 12”, and 24” designs. The patterns are arranged so that they can be overlapped and provide a continuous flow of design. At A handyman’s haven we have one – 3” , and eight – 6” patterns in stock. Moulded fillers and cornices are also available on order.
The 3” and 6” pattern comes in a sheet that is 2 feet by 4 feet. The 12” and 24” patterns come in a 2 feet by 2 feet sheet. All of these design may be used in applications other than ceilings. Back splashes, accent areas, wall placques, and whatever and wherever you decide with your creative mind. They may be installed in residential and commercial applications.
The 3” and 6” patterns are excellent for small areas: kitchens, dining rooms, bath and halls. They are also a great alternative fro back splashes and behind stoves of all sorts. They are also available as lay-in tiles for dropped ceilings that are 2 ft by 2 ft or 2 ft by 4 ft patterns.
The 12” patterns are excellent for large areas that may lend itself to a more bold pattern. Adding fillers makes for a nice clean look to finish off add dimensioned areas. Some patterns are in both the 6” and the 12” plates. This flexibility in designs lends it self to have the same design in both the bathroom, smaller plate, and bedroom, larger plate. They are also available as lay-in tiles for dropped ceilings that are 2 ft by 2 ft or 2 ft by 4 ft patterns.
The 24” plate patterns are excellent for high ceilings, and are utilized as Medallions with smaller patterns to highlight the main pattern. Fillers may be utilized with the larger patterns to accentuate the Medallion. They are also available as lay-in tiles for dropped ceilings that are 2 ft by 2 ft or 2 ft by 4 ft patterns.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR TIN CEILINGS
1. Using saw horses and heavy planking, erect scaffolding in the room.
2. Begin by nailing furring strips to the ceiling around the perimeter of the room. Distance from the wall depends on the size of the cornice that may be used.
3. Locate the center of the ceiling; strike a chalk line perpendicular to the ceiling joists. This ensures that the furring strips will be nailed into the joists. Working out from this line snap chalk lines at 12-inch intervals.
4. Place the edge of the furring strip along each line and nail it to the ceiling. Level the ceiling, raising low areas by inserting shims between the furring strips and the ceiling. If the ceiling is level and flat, it may be easier to plywood the entire ceiling. This process would only lower the ceiling the thickness of the plywood. It would also allow the installer to fasten the tin ceiling at any point without regards to locating or following a furring strip.
5. Snap a chalk line on the center of the furring strip in the center of the room.
6. Overlap the tin ceiling sheets towards the door, and under lap the tin ceiling moving away from the door. This procedure allows the seam to face the back of the room.
7. Align the edge of the tin sheet with the chalk line in the center of the room. Attach the sheet to the furring sheet with coated nails or you may think about using silver colored screws and silver colored finishing washers. By attaching the sheets in the corner of the pattern the fastener is less noticeable. Six-inch increments where the sheet overlaps and one foot increments in other fastening locations are adequate. The nipple areas are great locations to assist in minimizing the appearance of fasteners.
8. The installer should support the ceiling sheets with furring strips to assist the installation process.
9. Insert cross furring strips where the sheet overlaps to support the seams. This would not be necessary is the ceiling had plywood installed.
10. Use metal shears to cut the tin sheets and any holes for lighting.
11. Position the cut sheets towards the walls where the moulding or cornices would cover the rough edge.
12. Seal all seams by tapping the edges with the head of a wide angle chisel.
13. Nail cornices or moulding to the furring strips at 12-inch intervals along the bottom edge and at 6-inch intervals along the top edge.
14. Join the moulding or cornices with miter edges, nicking the edges at regular intervals and bending them back to make a tighter seam.
15. Close the seams by tapping with the head of a large nail.
16. Paint the finished ceiling with an oil base paint. Water based, latex, paint would corrode the metal, therefore not recommended.
17. Liquid solder is a good way to close any gaps when joining the corners with the cornice or moulding.
PAINTING TIN CEILINGS
1. Ensure that the metal is clean of all oils and debris.
2. Any oil based paint works fine.
3. At A Handyman’s Haven we can have the sheets colored with earth tones that are etched on to the surface. These colors then can be left natural or treated with polyurethane.
Tin back splashes
see tin ceilings